CHAPTER I.--CAIRO AND THE GREAT PYRAMID.

Arrival at Cairo.--Shepheard's Hotel.--The Moskee.--The Khan Khaleel.--The Bazaars.--Dahabeeyahs.--Ghizeh.--The Pyramids.

 

CHAPTER II.--CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE.

The Mosque of Sultan Hassan.--Moslems at prayer.--Mosque of Mehemet Ali.--View from the Platform.--Departure of the Caravan for Mecca.--The Báb en-Nasr.--The Procession.--The Mahmal.--Howling Dervishes.--The Mosque of `Amr.--The Shubra Road.

 

CHAPTER III.--CAIRO TO BEDRESHAYN.

Departure for the Nile Voyage.--Farewell to Cairo.--Turra.--The Philæ and crew.--The Dahabeeyah and the Nile sailor.--Native music.--Bedreshayn.

 

CHAPTER IV.--SAKKÂRAH AND MEMPHIS.

The Palms of Memphis.--Three groups of Pyramids.--The M. B.'s and their groom.--Relic-hunting.--The Pyramid of Ouenephes.--The Serapeum.--A royal raid.--The Tomb of Ti.--The Fallen Colossus.--Memphis.

 

CHAPTER V.--BEDRESHAYN TO MINIEH.

The rule of the Nile.--The Shâdûf.--Beni Suêf.--Thieves by night.--The Chief of the Guards.--A sandstorm.--"Holy Sheykh Cotton."--The Convent of the Pulley.--A Copt.--The Shadow of the World.--Minieh.--A native market.--Prices of provisions.--The Dôm palm.--Fortune-telling.--Ophthalmia.

 

CHAPTER VI.--MINIEH TO SIÛT.

Christmas Day.--The Party completed.--Christmas Dinner on the Nile.--A Fantasia.--Noah's Ark.--Birds of Egypt.--Gebel Abufayda.--Unknown Stelæ--Imprisoned.--The Scarab-beetle.--Manfalût.--Siût.--Red and black pottery.--Ancient tombs.--View over the plain.--Biblical legend.

 

CHAPTER VII.--SIÛT TO DENDERAH.

An "Experienced Surgeon."--Passing scenery.--Girgeh.--Sheykh Selim.--Kasr es Syad.--Forced labour.--Temple of Denderah.--Cleopatra.--Benighted.

 

CHAPTER VIII.--THEBES AND KARNAK.

Luxor.--Donkey-boys.--Topography of Ancient Thebes.--Pylons of Luxor.--Poem of Pentaur.--The solitary Obelisk.--Interior of the Temple of Luxor.--Polite postmaster.--Ride to Karnak.--Great Temple of Karnak.--The Hypostyle Hall.--A world of ruins.

 

CHAPTER IX.--THEBES TO ASSÛAN.

A storm on the Nile.--Erment.--A gentlemanly Bey.--Esneh.--A buried Temple.--A long day's sketching.--Salame the chivalrous.--Remarkable Coin.--Antichi.--The Fellâh.--The pylons of Edfû.--An exciting race.--The Philæ wins by a length.

 

CHAPTER X.--ASSÛAN AND ELEPHANTINE.

Assûan.--Strange wares for sale.--Madame Nubia.--Castor oil.--The black Governor.--An enormous blunder.--Tannhäuser in Egypt.--Elephantine.--Inscribed potsherds.--Bazaar of Assûan.--The Camel.--A ride in the Desert.--The Obelisk of the Quarry.--A death in the town.

 

CHAPTER XI.--THE CATARACT AND THE DESERT.

Scenery of the Cataract.--The Sheykh of the Cataract.--Vexatious delays.--The Painter's vocabulary.--Mahatta.--Ancient bed of the Nile.--Abyssinian Caravan.

 

CHAPTER XII.--PHILÆ.

Pharoah's Bed.--The Temples.--Champollion's discovery.--The Painted Columns.--Coptic Philæ.--Philæ and Desaix.--Chamber of Osiris.--Inscribed Rock.--View from the roof of the Temple.

 

CHAPTER XIII.--PHILÆ TO KOROSKO.

Nubian scenery.--A sand-slope.--Missing Yûsef.--Trading by the way.--Panoramic views.--Volcanic cones.--Dakkeh.--Korosko.--Letters from home.

 

CHAPTER XIV.--KOROSKO TO ABOU SIMBEL.

El-'Id el-Kebir.--Stalking wild ducks.--Temple of Amada.--Fine art of the Thothmes.--Derr.--A native funeral.--Temple of Derr.--The "fair" families.--The Sakkieh.--Arrival at Abou Simbel by moonlight.

 

CHAPTER XV.--RAMESES THE GREAT.

Youth of Rameses the Great.--Treaty with the Kheta.--His wives.--His great works.--The Captivity.--Pithom and Rameses.--Kauiser and Keniamon.--The Birth of Moses.--Tomb of Osymandias.--Character of Rameses the Great.

 

CHAPTER XVI.--ABOU SIMBEL. (unfinished)

The Colossi.--Portraits of Rameses the Great.--The great Sand-drift.--The smaller Temples.--"Rameses and Nefertari."--The Great Temple.--A monster tableau.--Alone in the Great Temple.--Trail of a crocodile.--Cleaning the Colossus.--The sufferings of the sketcher.

 

CHAPTER XVII.--THE SECOND CATARACT.

Volcanic mountains.--Kalat Adda.--Gebel esh-Shems.--The first crocodile.--Dull scenery.--Wady Halfeh--The Rock of Abusir.--The Second Cataract.--The great view.--Crocodile-slaying.--Excavating a tumulus.--Comforts of home on the Nile.

 

CHAPTER XVIII.--DISCOVERIES AT ABOU SIMBEL. (missing pictures)

Society at Abou Simbel.--The Painter discovers a rock-cut chamber.--Sunday employment.--Reinforcement of natives.--Excavation.--The Sheykh.--Discovery of human remains.--Discovery of pylon and staircase.--Decorations of Painted Chamber.--Inscriptions.

 

CHAPTER XIX.--BACK THROUGH NUBIA.

Temples ad infinitum.--Tosko.--Crocodiles.--Derr and Amada again.--Wady Sabooah.--Haughty beauty.--A nameless city.--A river of sand.--Undiscovered Temple.--Maharrakeh.--Dakkeh.--Fortress of Kobban.--Gerf Hossayn.--Dendoor.--Bayt-el-Welly.--The Karnak of Nubia.--Silco of the Ethiopians.--Tafah.--Dabôd.--Baby-shooting.--A dilemma.--Justice in Egypt.--The last of Philæ.

 

CHAPTER XX.--SILSILIS AND EDFÛ.

Shooting the Cataract.--Kom Ombo.--Quarries of Silsilis.--Edfû the most perfect of Egyptian temples.--View from the pylons.--Sand columns.

 

CHAPTER XXI.--THEBES. (unfinished)

Luxor again.--Imitation "Anteekahs."--Digging for Mummies.--Tombs of Thebes.--The Ramesseum.--The granite Colossus.--Medinet Habu.--The Pavilion of Rameses III.--The Great Chronicle.--An Arab story-teller.--Gournah.--Bab-el-Molûk.--The shadowless Valley of Death.--The Tombs of the Kings.--Stolen goods.--The French House.--An Arab dinner and fantasia.--The Coptic Church at Luxor.--A Coptic service.--A Coptic Bishop.

 

CHAPTER XXII.--ABYDOS AND CAIRO. (unfinished)

Last weeks on the Nile.--Spring in Egypt.--Ninety-nine in the shade.--Samata.--Unbroken donkeys.--The Plain of Abydos.--Harvest-time.--A Biblical idyll.--Arabat the Buried.--Mena.--Origin of the Egyptian People.--Temple of Seti.--New Tablet of Abydos.--Abydos and Teni.--Kom-es-Sultan.--Visit to a native Aga.--The Hareem.--Condition of women in Egypt.--Back at Cairo.--"In the name of the Prophet, Cakes!"--The Môlid-en-Nebee.--A human causeway.--The Boulak Museum.--Prince Ra-hotep and Princess Nefer-t.--Early drive to Ghizeh.--Ascent of the Great Pyramid.--The Sphinx.--The view from the Top.--The end.

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