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Old or Coptic Cairo, Egypt
We begin our journey into Old Cairo just opposite of Rhoda
Island and below it's southern tip. The area is known to the Egyptians as
Masr al-Qadima and stretches down to the sub-area often called Coptic
Cairo. Again, appropriate dress covering the body including shoulders and
legs is required for entering both Coptic and Islamic monuments.
Old Cairo is so named because it is the oldest part of Cairo,
and in fact, predates what is now Cairo. Some Egyptologists believe that
there was a settlement here as far back as the 6th century BC. Later, the
Romans built a fortress here which we call Babylon.
Some of these Roman walls still exist. Later, it became a Christian
stronghold, with as many as 20 churches built within an area of one square
mile. There are only five remaining, but these are certainly a must see
when visiting Cairo, along with the earliest Mosque ever built in Egypt.
In addition, after the fall of Jerusalem in about 70 AD, the area also saw an
influx of that religion into the area, where the oldest synagogue is also
located. Most of Pharaonic Egypt is a relic of one of the Worlds first and
grandest religions, including the great Pyramids outside Cairo. Yet if the
modern world can be said to have four major religions consisting of
Christianity, Hinduism, Islam and Judaism, then three of those are represented
by some of their most ancient relics in this section of Old Cairo.
Coptic Cairo

For simplicity, we will head south along Corniche el-Nile until
we pass the southern point of Roda Island. Just before we arrive at the
Masr al-Qadimah River Bus landing, we will pass the Mosque of Abdin Bey.
At the river bus, take the first street available east and away from the
Nile. This should lead us to Mar Girgis street. Make a left heading
north and look for the first entrance to the right (east). This will lead
us into at least part of the area now sometimes called by the government the 'Multi-religious
Compound' and the area within Old Cairo known as Coptic Cairo. This main
entrance is through perhaps one of the two oldest structures in Cairo, the
rounded towers of the western gate of the Roman fortress of Babylon built in 98
AD by Emperor Trajan. The Southern gate is the other oldest
structure.

The Coptic Museum
Here is the Coptic
Museum (1), founded in 1908 and it is advisable that we visit this first, for an
orientation of the area. Just southwest of here is the Hanging
Church (2) (The Church of the Virgin Mary), built into the walls of the Water
Gate of the Roman fortress. It is possibly the oldest Christian church in
Egypt, dating to around the 4th Century. From here, the possibility exists that
one must exit the first entrance due to construction work in the area and head
up Mar Girgis north a few steps to a second entrance. This entrance leads
into the Monastery and
Church of St.
George (3). This is not an old church, dating only from 1909, but there has been
a church in Coptic Cairo dedicated to he Martyr since the 10th century. Turn
left outside the door to St. George and the path leads to the Church
of St. Sergius (4) (Abu Serga), which legend has it is built atop one of the
sites where the Holy Family rested on their flight from Herod. Continuing
on this path brings one first to the Ben
Ezra Synagogue (5), which is Egypt's oldest and dates to the 9th Century.
Past that is St. Barbara (6), named
for the young girl who was martyred for trying to convert her father to
Christianity. There is also a gate that leads to the Greek Orthodox cemetery,
which surrounds the complex to the east.

Old Roman Walls
Northern Old Cairo
To exiting Coptic Cairo, go back out the door at St. Georges,
and take a left back on Mar Girgis and head north. The rubbish fields one
passes on the right are actually Fustat, the first Islamic city in Cairo and the
origins of modern Cairo. The area was razed to the ground when the
Fatimids took Cairo, and the Mamluks made it a dump ground, yet it is one of the
most important Islamic archaeological sites in the world. Continuing past
this, and veering right at a y in the street we will eventually come to the Mosque
of Amr Ibn al-As (7). Though little remains of the original structure,
this Mosque is the oldest in Egypt, it's ancestor having been built in 642
AD.
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