One of the oldest Muslim monuments in Egypt sits high up on
the plateau of the Muqattam hills overlooking the cemetery of Cairo,
as well as Cairo itself. This is the sanctuary of Badr al-Jamali
(Badr al-Gamali, al-Jammali), an Armenian who was prior to his time in Egypt, the governor of
Acre. Al-Jamali
became not only vizier to the Fatimid
Caliph al-Mustansir (1036-1094), who had requested his help in
restoring order to Egypt, but also held the honored title,
"The Great Master, Prince of Armies". He is notable
for having rebuilt al-Qahira's (Cairo)
defenses. In order to reach this mosque, one must take the
road which turns right off Salah Salim to Muqattam City,
opposite the eastern entrance to the Citadel
fortress.
This monument is somewhat of a mystery to us. We refer to
it as a mosque,
but an inscription on its foundation above the entrance
describes it as a mashhad, or shrine, though no one is known
to be buried here, and there is no indication in who's memory
it was built. Yet, there is a small domed chamber projecting
from the northern side of the sanctuary that could have at
least been intended as a mausoleum. Creswell thought this was
a later addition, but Farid Shafi'i proved that it was part of
the original construction. The Description de l'Egypt defined
the monument as the "chapel of Shaykh Badr" on a
map, which could have been a popular version of al-Jamali's
name. A street in the same area is called Shaykh Najm, and Abu
'l-Najm was one of the honorific titles of Badr al-Jamali.
However, Maqrizi tells us that Badr al-Jamali was buried
outside Bab al-Nasr
(Gate of Victory).
Its setting is isolated from the main pilgrimage centers of
the Southern Qarafa, and so its purpose remains obscure. It
has been suggested that it acts as a watchtower disguised as a
mosque, because of the exaggerated size of the minaret and the
appearance on the roof of domed edicules too small for any
religious function. The two small domed structures, almost
like kioks less than one meter in width, with prayer niches
carved on their southeastern sides, could have been for
guards. One must remember that al-Jamali was the commander of
Egypt's armies.
However, others see it as a memorial to the victories of
Badr al-Jamali over the chaos that had long troubled the Fatimid
Empire. They see the small domes atop the structure as
simply small rooms for meditation and seclusion as the
location of the mosque obviously provided. Regardless of these
theories, the novel composition of its forms, along with their
miniature size, especially when perceived in its particular
setting, lead us to few firm answers.
Perhaps because its builder was not particularly important
religiously, the building was never used as an important cult
center, and has therefore aged well. Usually, such buildings
would have been subjected to a number of restorations and
embellishments. However, during the Ottoman period, the mosque
was used by dervishes as a monastery. Nevertheless, it is the
most complete mashhad that has survived from the Fatimid
period.
This is a symmetrical rectangular structure measuring 22.5
by 17 meters, built of rubble masonry and brick. It is built
around a very small courtyard. One enters it through a plain
door, significantly lacking a portal, underneath the minaret
situated on the axis of the prayer hall.
This Syrian inspired
minaret some 20 meters high, which is the oldest surviving
minaret of its kind in Cairo, has a tall base, a square second
story, an octagonal third story that is then surmounted by a
dome. On both sides of the minaret are rooms. The minaret's
shape is reminiscent of the minaret at the great mosque of
Qayrawan in Tunisia, which was erected in the ninth century.
The cornice of niches in a double row around the first story (muqarnas
cornice) marks the first appearance of stalactite
decorations,
an adornment that would appear frequently in later buildings.
It is employed here to emphasize the visual separation
of the various parts of the minaret. Since the second
occurrence in Egypt of this muqarnas feature, which
is in the wall of Cairo next to
Bab al-Futuh
(Gate of Conquest),
is also attributed to the Armenian vizier and former
governor of Syria, Badr al-Jamali, it
has been suggested that this Persian motif was introduced into
Egypt through Armenian and Syrian
mediation.
Within, the facade of the courtyard is composed of a large
keel arch supported by two pairs of columns and flanked by two
smaller arches, giving the facade the tripartite composition
often found in Fatimid
structures. A transitional, cross-vaulted vestibule, defined
by a triple-arched portico on its courtyard side,
leads to the square dome chamber as well as to two
cross-vaulted extensions flanking
the courtyard. It has been suggested that these rooms to
either side of the courtyard were for residential purposes,
since they do not provide access to the prayer hall.
The Prayer hall itself is roofed over with cross vaults
though the bay above the prayer niche is crowned by a dome on
plain squinches. The real beauty of this building is the mihrab
of carved stucco. The niche is lavishly decorated with stucco
carving in the spandrels of its arch. The conch itself has
eighteenth century Ottoman paintings of lowers, framed by a
rectangular panel in which bands of Quaranic inscriptions
alternate with arabesque leaf patterns. Creswell believed that
this decoration is comparable to Persian designs. The interior
of the dome here is also decorated with stucco carving and at
the summit is a medallion with the names of Muhammad and 'Ali.
On the square part of the dome, an inscription band carries a
Quaranic text.
Not long ago, this monument was restored by Dawoodi Bohras.

A more recent photo of the structure prior to its restoration
References:
| Title |
Author |
Date |
Publisher |
Reference
Number |
| Cambridge Illustrated
History Islamic World |
Robinson, Francis |
1996 |
Cambridge University Press |
ISBN 0-521-43510-2 |
| Historical Cairo (A Walk
Through the Islamic City) |
Antonious, Jim |
1988 |
American University in Cairo
Press, The |
ISBN 977-424-497-4 |
| Islamic Monuments in Cairo,
A Practical Guide |
Paker, Richard B.; Sabin,
Robin; Williams, Caroline |
1985 |
American University in Cairo
Press, The |
ISBN 977 424 036 7 |
| Islamic Architecture in
Cairo: An Introduction |
Behrens-Abouseif, Doris |
1992 |
E. J. Brill |
ISBN 90-04-08677-3 |
| Mosque, The: History,
Architectural Development & Regional Diversity |
Frishman, Martin and Khan,
Hasan-Uddin |
1994 |
Thames and Hudson LTD |
ISBN 0-500-34133-8 |
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