The governor of Aleppo during the reign of Sultan al-Ghuri,
Amir Khayrbak became the Ottomans' first governor of Egypt
after their conquest in 1517 as a reward for betraying the
sultan and cooperating with the Ottoman conquerors. He had
defected to the Ottoman side during the battle of Marj Dabiq
near Aleppo in 1516 and a year later was appointed to his
Egyptian position by the Ottoman Sultan, Selim. He built his mosque/madrasa and a sabil-kuttab between 1520 and 1521 AD.
The mosque is situated at Tabbana between the
Citadel and
Bab
Zuwayla and is best viewed form the direction of the Citadel.
Though this monument may straddle the Mamluk and
Ottomasn
periods, architecturally it is in the Mamluk tradition and
does not incorporate new or foreign architectural
elements.
The juxtaposition of the sabil-kuttab, bent entrance, prayer hall, and mausoleum created two sets of protrusions. The first, consisting of the
sabil-kuttab and the bent entrance, follow the street's alignment; the second, following the prayer hall and the mausoleum, is oriented towards Mecca. The two sets of protrusions, combined with the square-octagonal-cylindrical minaret and the dome with an elaborate exterior zone of transition made up of half prisms, present an unusual volumetric composition with
contrasting forms counterbalancing each other.
Its dome, with its triangular shoulders, is covered with a
repetitive arabesque pattern of interlacing leaves and hearts.
This is a two-layered, tapestry-like carving which appears as
a simplified version of the intricate theme introduced on the
tome over the mausoleum of Sultan
Qaytbay. The two layers on Qaytbay's dome are distinguished from one another a geometrical pattern and an undulating arabesque
pattern that produces a contrasting surface articulation. This dynamic equilibrium between the two patterns is further accentuated by a difference in planes. The two interlacing, uniplanar arabesque layers on the dome of Khayrbak exhibit similar contrasting surface articulation.
The minaret has a geometric star-shaped stucco design
carved on the brick shaft. The threshold of the minaret is
made from a block of stone taken from a pharaonic
building. It
includes hieroglyphic inscriptions, including a depiction of
the mummified Osiris. Unfortunately, its original top is lost
to us, but old illustrations depict it as the usual pavilion
type.
 
The minaret from an earlier photo showing
its top, and later without
Under the dome on the south side, the wall is on an angle,
and on the western or street side, the wall is adjusted to
conform to the street alignment between the mausoleum and the
ruins of the palace. On the eastern side of the dome
there is an arch that includes an interior staircase that
connects the palace with the mausoleum. This was the palace
built by Amir Alin Aq in the late thirteenth century AD and
was afterwards inhabited by various amirs, including Khayrbak.
Arched windows in pairs adorn the face of the mausoleum.
They are surmounted by circular windows, while the lower
windows are rectangular. Other decorations include carved
stone panels and joggled lintels.
The marble, inlaid portal, which leads through a corridor
into a courtyard, is of the trilobed groin-vaulted variety. To
the left side of the portal passage is a sabil-kuttab,
which protrudes slightly and balances the protrusion under the
minaret at the other end of the facade. The entrance tot he
sabil-kuttab through a door on the left side of the entrance
corridor. The mosque is approached from the courtyard, which
is uncommon. There is a courtyard on the east side of the
mosque that contains a tomb and is bordered by Salah al-Din's
(Saladin) eastern city wall, separating it from the cemetery
of Bab al-Wazir.
The interior of the mosque is a hall consisting of three
cross vaults supported by pointed arches. The central vault
has an octagonal opening to admit illumination. On the eastern
wall is the prayer niche, which is paneled like the rest of
the wall with a polychrome marble dada and a conch of plain
stone. A rather awkward feature here are the windows above the
prayer niche, which are partly hidden by the curve of the
central arch supporting the vault. It seems as though the
architect might have begun the walls with the intention of
roofing them as usual with a wooden ceiling, but then altered
the plan after the qibla wall was erected and instead added
arches for the vault.
 
Two Views of the Interior of the prayer hall
It is possible that a shortage of wood might explain this
odd feature. Egypt has always had to import wood, and in the
time of Sultan al-Ghuri, it would have been imported from
Anatolia. Since Egypt was already involved in the disturbances
caused by the Ottoman conquests, timber may have been
difficult to obtain.

Plan of the Complex of Khayrbak
The dikka, which is a
loggia made of wood, is situated on
the western wall opposite the prayer niche. This wall, which
includes recesses, is adjusted to the street alignment by
irregular thickness in the wall. Here, the qibla wall is not
properly oriented to Mecca, as is the prayer niche in the
mausoleum. This is most likely due to a lack of space, which
raises the question of whether the space occupied by the
mosque was originally planned for another purpose and later
adapted as a religious building.

A decorative pattern within the mosque
Facing the entrance of the Mosque at the back of the prayer
hall is a trilobed portal with a groin vault adorned with
ablaq masonry and stalactites in the two side arches that
leads into the mausoleum. An interesting architectural element
of this building is the treatment of the mausoleum entrance,
which is enhanced by a portal and which has a pair of maksalas.
While this treatment is common on facades, it is not usually
found in interiors.
The mausoleum walls are not straight, and inside they show
irregularities in the arrangement of the windows. Here, the
inner window openings do not correspond to the outer openings,
so that the openings run obliquely through the thickness of
the masonry.
Interestingly, the mausoleum is dated to 1502/3 AD, but the
foundation deed of the madrasa has a much later date of 1521.
There are no dated inscriptions on the madrasa, but there is
also no break in the masonry of the mausoleum and madrasa to
suggest that they were constructed at different times.
The madrasa's foundation deed indicates that it was planned
for ten students who were also Sufis. Five living units under
the floor of the mosque, reached from the yard, provided their
lodging.
References:
| Title |
Author |
Date |
Publisher |
Reference Number |
|
Cairo |
Raymond, Andre |
2000 |
Harvard University Press |
ISBN 0-674-00316-0 |
|
Cairo: An Illustrated History |
Raymond, Andre, Editor |
2002 |
Rizzoli, New York |
ISBN 0-8478-2500-0 |
|
Cairo (Biography of a City) |
Aldridge, James |
1969 |
Little, Brown and Company |
ISBN 72-79364 |
|
Cairo: The City Victorious |
Rodenbeck, Max |
1998 |
Vintage Books (A Division of Random House, Inc. |
ISBN 0-679-76727-4 |
|
Cambridge Illustrated History Islamic World |
Robinson, Francis |
1996 |
Cambridge University Press |
ISBN 0-521-43510-2 |
|
History of Islam, The |
Payne, Robert |
1959 |
Barns & Noble Books |
ISBN 1-56619-852-6 |
|
Islamic Architecture in Cairo, An Introduction |
Behrens-Abouseif, Doris |
1998 |
American University in Cairo Press, The |
ISBN 977 4247 2013 3 |
|
Islamic Monuments in Cairo: A Practical Guide |
Parker, Richard B., Sabin, Robin & Williams, Caroline |
1985 |
American University in Cairo Press, The |
ISBN 977 424 036 7 |
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