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Trekking in Today's Sinai
By Angela Wierstra
The "great and terrible wilderness" of the Bible has
turned into a luxurious holiday paradise. Sinai has become well
known for deluxe resorts located on the beaches of the Gulf of
Aqaba and is famous for its extraordinary underwater world.
Little is known about the Sinai inhabitants, the Bedouins. Not
long ago Sinai’s Bedouin were half-nomads, traveling the remote
desert by camel and on foot. They were following a traditional way
of life based on a pastoral culture of grace and honor.
 Today, Bedouins are adapting to the new environment. Goat-hair
tents made way for concrete buildings. Youngsters fancy TV more
than listening to the old tribal stories as told by the elder
members of the tribe. Sickness is healed by modern pharmaceutical
products rather than by ancient herbal treatment. The camel is
kept out of sentiment and as an attraction for tourists - 4 wheel
drive has taken over transportation.
Indeed, life has become a lot easier – and faster. Yet, every
now and then, every modern Bedouin disappears into the desert,
"to clean the head" as they say, to take a break from
the hassle of everyday life, away from the "dawsha".
A journey into the mystic wilderness is a worthwhile and
authentic adventure experiencing the desert in a different way,
through the eyes of the Bedouins. The Bedouins are proud of their
ancient culture and independence, and they are known for their
hospitality. During a camel trek, they invite us to be their
guests. On this journey, we experience the desert in its pure
beauty. At a slow pace, we explore the always-changing terrain.
The silhouettes of the mountains change with the daylight. So do
the colors. Time becomes meaningless - another dimension.
 The loading, the shouting and accompanying mayhem, the meeting
with your camel and the first tentative moments in the saddle, all
add to the sense of anticipation. The caravan gradually comes
together and moves peacefully and slowly into the mountain
wilderness, leaving noisy civilization behind.
Every day is different as the Bedu take us through wadis
and canyons of many different colors and shapes of sandstone
formation eroded by centuries of wind. Vegetation is sparse, and
yet with some luck, we might see a desert fox or even a gazelle
looking down on us from a high crag.
The daily routine starts when we wake up with the first sunbeam. A
quick wash while our Bedouin friends have prepared breakfast
consisting of sweet tea and delicious ash-baked bread. We load and
move on. We are never in a rush. There is always time for a short
walk to a breathtaking viewpoint or a little oasis. Around mid-day
we stop for lunch, passing the hot hours of the day in the shade
under a rock or a cliff or beneath an acacia tree. Before dark we
set up camp for the night. Then we join the Bedouins around the
campfire where they have prepared simple and tasty one-pot meals.
We listen to their songs and stories of the old days, before we
crawl into our sleeping bags watching the innumerous stars.
These treks need nothing more than a fondness of nature and
outdoor living along with the ability to adapt to a simple
lifestyle. The Bedouins guide us; with their extraordinary
hospitality and kindness, they care for us and our concerns.
The positive feedback of camel treks has inspired us with the
idea of a camel riding school. Not everybody has the chance and
ability to join a trek, but curiosity remains about the Bedouin
lifestyle. The camel once was the source of survival for the
Bedouin. It was the common transportation, it was the travel
companion, it provided with milk, water, meat, and from its hair
clothing, rugs, bags and even parts of the tent was woven.
Since two cultures are interacting, this should happen in a
safe environment on neutral territory. We have chosen Habiba
Village in Nuweiba. Habiba is located on the beach, not far from
the town center and its aim is to protect the essence of the
Sinai: simplicity and relaxation combined with high quality
services.
The school is held on the beach in a casual atmosphere. For the
lessons, we have chosen experts among the Bedouins, who possess
the traditional knowledge about camel-raising, herbal medicine and
the desert. One of the Bedouin will act as a translator. The theme
of the school is the camel, but the aim is to transmit the wisdom
of life in a different culture. Since the Bedouins are talented
storytellers – ancestry and historical
events are told by mouth from generation to generation –
they tend to easily catch the attention of the audience by a
spirited presentation of facts and stories.
Treks after attending the course will vary. We collect the
water. We cook the food and we learn how to make the tasty
ash-baked bread. We learn how to collect the wood for the
campfire, while taking care not to damage the fragile desert
environment.
If you are interested in our Camel Riding School or a full
desert trek, please do not hesitate to contact us.
For additional information: crs@sinai4you.com
and see their web site.
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