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Restaurant Five Bells, Cairo
By Daniel Lanier
Recently I was dining in a restaurant, which pleasantly mixed
various styles and atmospheres in a surprising way. I sat in a
wonderfully romantic section of a nearly European-style garden,
next to a little baroque fountain, surrounded by sculpted cherubs.
I found myself gazing at a statue of Ramses while listening to
soft Sixties music. A unique but somehow soothing combination. My
dinner began with a marvelous first course of a miraculous cheese
cream from Egyptian white cheese and tomatoes and with bread; I
went on to T’ammiyya (Falafel), Fuul (fava beans), French onion
soup and ended up with a mixed plate with different kinds of
grilled meat. Around me at the other tables were sitting
Egyptians, French, Germans and Americans.
 Five Bells is a relaxing green garden oasis for almost
everyone’s taste, in the middle of urban Cairo. I thought: no
matter from what nation my guests will be, they can’t go wrong.
Egyptian food? No problem, Five Bells offers everything
from stuffed vine leaves to several mezzas, from Dawood Basha to
Shish Tawook and Kebab, from Baba Ghannoug to Tehina and to Om Ali
nearly everything (except Molokhiyya). Italian kitchen? Just
choose between several spaghetti and risotto dishes! Meat and
seafood? Don’t worry, escalope and fillet, from veal, beef and
lamb, with mushroom or curry or pepper or lemon sauce, fish
grilled or in white sauce and … and … and… I even found lamb
testicles on the menu. Don’t ask me if this is a very delicious
international specialty or just a local tradition. I didn’t dare
to ask.
Five Bells has something for everyone’s taste. Yet, I saw
the whole patronage that evening ordering a specialty of the
house: Fondue Bourguignonne. Every half an hour the waiter brought
a large pot with  hot oil to one of the tables, with several
sauces, french fries and fillet cubes for frying them by yourself
in the hot oil – 60 LE (16 US-$) for two persons.
Among the dishes I tasted, I found exceptionally delicious the
Beef Stroganoff and the mushroom sauce, which I ordered to the
mixed grill plate. All main dishes cost LE 29 ($ 7.50), which is
rather inexpensive – even if you add 12 percent service charge
and LE 3.50 cover charge. A elegant and noble atmosphere with good
food, for a very reasonable amount of money.
 The dining rooms inside are finely decorated with paintings and
a large 250 years old gobelin, which had its original home
in the Upper Egyptian palace of the family of the restaurant’s
owner, in Assiut. Part of the location is a cozy English pub and a
bar, where regulars even can bring with them and leave their own
bottles of alcoholic drinks. The bottle gets a sticker with the
name of the owner, will be kept in the bar’s refrigerator and
stays there until the bottle’s owner finished it, no matter if
this takes him one day or one year. Every Thursday plays a live
band.
My personal opinion: My favorite is the garden, without a
doubt. It is the best part of the restaurant, a wonderful oasis in
the middle of Cairo. If you are nearby any afternoon, just drop in
for having a relaxing coffee or a soft drink, have a look into the
menu, enjoy the garden – and you probably will develop the
desire return at night again, for a romantic dinner.
Restaurant Five Bells. 9, El Adel Abou Bakr Street, Zamalek,
Cairo. At the corner Ismail Mohamed Street. Open daily from 12:30
pm to 1:30 am.
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