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Mr. Mohamed Arabi: The "Bird
Man" of Aswan
By Susan L. Wilson
 "Birders," nature lovers, and people looking for a
unique photo op, take note. I found an absolute "must
do" in Aswan. No matter how you get to Aswan, the ethereal
the Nile hypnotizes even the most ardent skeptic. It’s a given!
In Aswan, white felucca sails dot the rushing emerald depths of
the Nile as it rolls perpetually northward to the Mediterranean
against a backdrop of azure blue skies and tall, golden sand
cliffs of the Sahara desert. The eternal Nile soothes even the
most skeptical soul. Such was how I found myself as I disembarked
from our cruise in Aswan – mesmerized by the Nile’s charms.
As we prepared to head into the heart of the tourist district
along the Corniche, I found myself searching for a way to get back
on the Nile. Feluccas dotted the river as happy tourists smiled
and danced to the beat of Nubian music blaring from the boats’
jam-boxes. By good fortune, we were invited to join a river ride
with a couple on a quick tour of the small islands that dot the
Nile in this region. Happily, we accepted expecting nothing more
than a quiet ride through the small channels of the river in late
afternoon. We joined up with Mr. Mohamed Arabi, an old friend and
tour guide in the area, and headed across the Nile in relative
silence enjoying the cooling effects of the breeze drifting up
from the water. The awaiting surprise astounded even a seasoned
Egypt traveler.
 As we pulled away from the dock and headed up-river towards the
Agha Khan’s Mausoleum, we motored towards the dock at the
Botanical Gardens. Framed with flame trees with masses of scarlet
red flowers, palms heavily laden with dates, and flowering
bougainvilleas and oleanders, we saw hundreds of white puff-balls
in the trees. As we neared the river banks, the white puff-balls
took on definition – hundreds of egrets roosted among the trees
overhanging the Western banks of the Nile. Among the adult birds
were numerous baby egrets covered in down, anxiously awaiting a
tidbit from their mother. It was at this moment that I learned
that this was to be no usual tour along the riverbank.
Out of nowhere, Arabi jumped to the front of the boat, pointing
excitedly. "Look, egrets!" Quickly, he began explaining
many of the characteristics of the egrets, the different types of
egrets that live in this part of Egypt, and how to distinguish one
from the other. Suddenly, he cried out, "See, three babies
just there in the tree!" With my mouth still open in
amazement, I learned that this was definitely not going to be a
quiet motor along the river!
 Frantically, I began pulling my camera out of its bag afraid I
would miss the opportunity. I tried desperately to focus with the
movement of the boat and birds. Never fear, camera bugs, Arabi
slowed the boat, the birds stayed still, and I got my pictures. As
we proceeded by the botanical gardens, Arabi pointed out various
plants all blooming in radiant color. Hibiscus, lantana,
bougainvillea, poinciana, acacia trees and mimosa. He pulled over
to the bank so we could stroke the leaves of the mimosa and watch
them curl at our touch. The smell of the fresh leaves was
intoxicating! Whereas, the casual observer just sees green and
abundant colorful flowers, we found that Arabi’s animated
discussions gave this tropical paradise new meaning.
 With my feet dangling over the side of the boat, I couldn’t
resist dragging my toes through the cold presence of the Nile.
Slowly, we began meandering through the myriad of small islands in
the Nature Reserve dodging boulders jutting from the river’s
rush. As we slowly motored through the narrow channels of reed and
bamboo lined shores, the sound of hundreds of parakeets broke the
quiet solitude of the Nature Reserve.. Did you know that in the
wild, parakeets actually screech their name? "Parakeet!
Parakeet!" The closer we got to the First Cataract, the more
excited Arabi became. Spry as a cat and as at home on the boat as
ashore, he jumped from one side of the boat to the other each time
pointing out a new species of birds or plants. He knew exactly
where to go to find which bird. Facts are, I am not a
"Birder" by any stretch of the imagination, but Arabi’s
excitement was contagious. Our companions on the boat were real
"Birders." Armed with books, camera, and binoculars, one
of the things they wanted most on their trip to Egypt was to add
new species of birds to their sighting list. Around every crook
and bend, they frantically flipped through their bird
identification book and added a new bird to their growing list.
King Fishers, Malachite King Fishers, Striated Herons, Little
Bitten Herons, Night Herons, Little Green Bee Eaters, and Nile
Valley Sunbirds are just a few of the birds we sighted. The list
grew and grew.
 In case you are thinking this adventure is only for bird
lovers, let me be the first to assure you that any nature lover
can find something to spark the imagination. We not only got to
see numerous new bird species, but also plants not native to our
respective homelands. Around one bend the river, we approached a
stand of greenery different from the rest along shore. Arabi
showed us bulrushes, "like the ones where the baby Moses was
found."
As we snaked around the next bend, we came upon a man sitting
on the riverbank dressed in the typical men’s clothing of the
area, a galabiya. Excited talk ensued and the man got into his
small rowboat and we followed him to a small cove. There he pulled
up a net filled with fish that he and Arabi proceeded to divide.
Still alive and flopping, Arabi put about 40 fish in a small bag
to take home for dinner. All the while, he explained the different
types of fish in the Nile -- when they jump and where they live.
You might be thinking that this was surely enough for one
afternoon, but, alas, the fun was not over yet.
Next we pulled up to a small farm on one of the islands, hopped
out of the boat, and proceeded to get a tour of a banana and mango
farm. I had no idea there were so many different types of mangoes!
Amid the twisted paths of the farm, we came upon water buffalo
chewing fresh clover. A red-tailed, elegant rooster strutted
through the clearing keeping his hens in line. Dogs barked and
friendly, warm farmers welcomed us to their home.
As the sun began to fade over the golden cliffs of the Western
Desert, we finally turned back for town. On the way back to our
launch site amid shouts of "Look, Nile Valley Sunbird!"
and "Look! There! On the rocks! Striated Heron," I
managed to ask Arabi how he learned so much about all the birds,
fish, and plants of the region. An educated man who speaks several
languages, he told of how he grew up in the area and was taught
much from his father. The rest he learned from books and
observation. Full of perpetual energy, Arabi can give you the
common names, Latin names, and Egyptian names of every plant,
bird, and fish in the region. He has been written up in foreign
journals for his understanding of Nile ecology and hopes to have a
book published soon on birds of the area.
We said goodbye at the dock, saddened that the afternoon with
Arabi was over, but excited with the thrill of knowing we got to
see a special part of Egypt off the "ordinary" tourist
path. If you would like to have this special adventure, just ask
any local travel agent to call Arabi and arrange a special Nature
Reserve trip or call him on his mobile phone at 012-324-0132. Don’t
forget to bring your bird book, camera, and lots of film. And tell
him I said "Hi!" and thanks for a most memorable
journey.
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