Several of the scenes on Tutankhamun's small
gold shrine
show the king wearing a necklace composed of two strings of
disk-shaped beads. In one scene the queen is in the act of tying
it on his neck. A necklace of the same kind, but with three
strings, was placed on the neck of the gold mask that covered
the head and shoulders of the king's mummy. The beads in the two
outer strings of this necklace, however, are not all made of
gold; most of the gold beads are arranged in sequences of eight
followed by two blue faience beads of the same shape. In each of
the groups the two middle beads are reddish in color, a feature
shared by much of the gold found in
Tutankhamun's tomb. The
color is not a sign of impurity in the metal; it is a result of
applying to the outer surface of the object a very thin film of
either iron oxide or iron pyrites and soda, which can be removed
by scraping. Each string is capped with an imitation of a lotus
flower inlaid with faience and carnelian, to which three gold
beads are joined. The terminals consist of cloisonne-work uraei
with blue faience heads surmounted by solar disks.
This type
of necklace, which may consist of as many as four strings, is
called in Egyptian texts shebu or shebyu. The first king to be
represented wearing it is
Amenhotpe
III's predecessor,
Thutmose
IV (c. 1419-1386 B.C.). It remained in fashion as a royal
accouterment until the end of the
Twentieth Dynasty (c. 1085
B.C.), but its possession was not an exclusively royal
prerogative. From the beginning of the
Eighteenth Dynasty
onwards it was one of the regular rewards for valor and also for
distinguished services that, at least in the Amarna period,
might be given to women as well as to men. A relief from the
Memphite tomb of
Haremhab, now in the Leiden Museum, shows
Haremhab, as the general of the army, receiving shebyu necklaces
from a king who was no doubt Tutankhamun himself, but the figure
of the king has been lost apart from his feet, which were found
when the tomb was excavated. Sculptured scenes on the walls of
tombs of officials at Amarna show the investitures taking place
at the so-called "Window of Appearance" in the palace precincts,
witnessed by an enthusiastic crowd of onlookers. It is evident
from references in biographical texts as well as from the tomb
reliefs that a recipient might be awarded several shebyu
necklaces at one investiture.
Interchangeability of such a kind was,
however, unusual and is hard to explain, unless it was by reason
of the amount of valuable material contained in the insignia.
Apart from the obsidian eyes, the vulture's head is made of
solid gold, its wrinkled occiput, and short, stiff parietal
feathers at the back of the neck giving it a most lifelike
appearance. The cobra's head and hood are inlaid with lapis
lazuli, faience, carnelian, and glass, and the long, curly tail,
chase to imitate the serpent's scales, is curved to fit over the
top of the wig. On the front of the hood, crossing the central
markings, is the emblem of the goddess
Neith. When wrapping the
mummy, the embalmers did not attach the vulture's head and the
cobra to the diadem, possibly because the mask would not have
fitted over them, but placed them lower on the body, the
vulture's head over the right (southern) thigh and the cobra
over the left thigh.
The vulture-goddess
Nekhbet, whose name means
"She who belongs to Nekheb," was originally simply the local
goddess of Nekheb, the modern
Elkab on the east bank of the
Nile, about halfway between
Luxor and
Aswan. She owed her
importance in dynastic times to her previous adoption by the predynastic kings of Upper Egypt, whose seat lay at Nekhen (Hierakonpolis)
across the river from Nekheb. According to tradition, the last
of these kings,
Menes, completed the conquest of Lower Egypt,
the patron deity of whose kings was the cobra-goddess
Wadjet,
and united the two kingdoms under his sovereignty in about 3100
B.C. The vulture and the cobra thus became the symbols of this
unification and also the tutelary deities of the kings. Their
heads were often placed side by side on the front of the
headdresses worn by kings on state occasions, and on the
headdresses of their statues and other representations.
Frequently the entire cobra was reproduced in this setting. It
is said that the species of vulture (Gyps fulvus) has its
habitat at the present day in Middle and Upper Egypt and further
south, but is seldom seen in Lower Egypt.
Circlets were a common feature in
Egyptian
dress, worn by both men and women, regardless of class and at
every period. In origin their purpose was purely utilitarian, a
device to confine the
hair and prevent it from falling over the
eyes. A simple band of rope or fabric tied in a knot at the back
of the head gave all the protection necessary. Scenes carved on
the walls of Old Kingdom tombs depict boatmen holding long
staves in their hands and wearing such circlets while engaged in
mock combat. The first step in the process of development from
the simple to the ornamental was certainly taken, albeit
unconsciously, when flowers, usually the
blue lotus and its
buds, were inserted between the band and the head. Besides being
ornamental, the insertion of flowers, and particularly the blue
lotus, surrounded the wearer with a fragrant and refreshing
aroma, though doubtless of very limited duration in a hot
climate. Banqueting scenes regularly show the female
participants, whether guests, attendants, or musicians, wearing
floral circlets on the crowns of their wigs, sometimes with a
fresh supply in reserve placed in a dish nearby. Even in this
developed form the circlet still fulfilled its original function
of keeping the hair, or the wig, in position.
Once the circlet had assumed an ornamental
character, its reproduction in more costly and permanent
materials as an object of adornment was a natural consequence.
But the use of such materials necessitated the stylization of
the individual features, and
Tutankhamun's diadem provides a
very clear example of the way in which the adaptation could be
accomplished. The gold headband is decorated with carnelian
roundels (some of which are modern) in contiguous cloisons, each
roundel being attached by a central rivet capped with a gold
cloison inlaid with a disk of red chalcedony and the bow being
in the form of two papyrus umbel cloisons inlaid with malachite.
The two ends of the band hang down beneath the know as
streamers, each decorated in the same fashion as the band
itself. Two ribbon-like appendages at the sides resemble the
streamers in their decoration, but they are wider and each
ribbon has a massive gold cobra attached to its front edge.
These two features and the royal insignia over the brow are the
only elements in the diadem that are not adapted directly from
the floral circlet with a beaded headband.